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Cloncmanoise and The Shannon

 

 

 

Cloncmanoise, a 6th century monastic site a few miles upstream of ShannonBridge, seemed the ideal place to get ourselves back onto an even keel after the incident with the boulder and leaking stern tube that had somewhat marred our return run down the River Suck. There is a jetty mooring on the Shannon here that we  were able to squeeze onto amongst all the hired craft, and a short walk up the field is the visitor centre, bus and car parks that deliver the vast majority of tourists.  Cloncmanoise was trashed more than fifty times in its first thousand years: initially by the Vikings, then the Normans and finally the English until, in 1552, the site was abandoned. The good news about the loss of the village here is that there are no pubs or shops and, unless like us your motivation for being there is to indulge in the silence and peace of such a remote spot, everybody departs. This included the majority of the hire boats.  In the quiet of the evening we watched a spectacular sunset and enjoyed a huge flock of swallows as they coursed over the water for the last hour of light.  It is a difficult thing to find somewhere beyond earshot of human noise as we did that night. Peace.

 

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Its not our dog!
The following morning we had intended to head on upstream but the motivation was lacking - as it often has been since we arrived in Ireland. After all where are we rushing to? Or from? - and we stayed put. This meant  that we continued our acquaintance with a ‘friend’ we had met the day before.  Not that we had any choice as, when we got up, he had been sitting by our door waiting for the fun to begin and had come in. How could we refuse him? it may have been the loving eyes, or even the friendly grin, certainly the wagging tail was endearing but one thing was clear: this dog was our new best friend. Hobbes should have been the one getting involved but he had lost all interest the day before when his play in the shallow margins of the river was ruined by the constant theft of his sticks. Hugely affectionate (our undoing) the dog was the oddest mongrel: if you can imagine taking a corgi and swapping just the head and tail for a labrador then you would not be far wrong. His behaviour was also erratic and we tired of telling people that he was nothing to do with us as he chased the cattle round the field. We cannot blame them for thinking that he was ours as he was lying next to Hobbes outside our boat much of the time. We finally broke the bond when we went for a long walk down the lanes behind the site, those little legs would only carry him so far and he slowly dropped back until we were just three. It was the last we were to see of him.

 

 

 

Who Me?
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The second night at Cloncmanoise was much less peaceful: a large ‘Gin Palace’ had arrived and moored next to us. Crewed by locals who had no concerns about the absence of pub or restaurant; it was out with the B-B-Q and beer, and let the party begin. Nothing major and certainly not something to stress about but we were very glad to have been there the night before and to know just how magical this extraordinary place can be when silent. Many of these styled modern boats have no gas on board so generators tend to be run rather a lot: you fancy a cup of tea; I'll put the gennie on. We got a little revenge on the party boat the next morning when we slipped our mooring early.  During the week it seems that few people are abroad on the river much before ten so we had a couple of hours of solitude. The only boat we met until the lock at Athlone was the Viking trip boat running a party down to Cloncmanoise.

Athlone itself was not much to write home about, so I won’t. But we did get a visit from the regional controller of Waterways Ireland who wanted to make sure that all was well with us and that the problems following the boulder strike were not going to cause us any further trouble. We briefly moored outside the oldest bar in Ireland - ‘Sean’s Place’ -  I did ask the obvious question of how many other oldest bars there are in Ireland and was told that this one is officially recognised as such. We then moved across the river to a quieter mooring as the original spot was used by the bars ‘smirkers’: so called because they go outside to smoke and flirt.  Not that we slept much better for being across the river: the Viking boat had returned and moored behind us: before leaving it for the night, the owner had used props to hold it off the bank. He had then placed strips of metal full of upturned nails on top of them to stop anyone boarding the boat. This took sometime and when I asked him if we could expect visitors and trouble, he thought long and hard and then said not as it was a Thursday. Not for us mooring in Athlone at the weekend. Even midweek is not much fun: such was the noise from the revelers I did not sleep until gone three. It did not matter: the following morning we were gone to the  vastness of Lough Ree; somewhere we would not have to concern ourselves with locking doors.

 

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Boarders beware.


 
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